VISITING LUBIANA DURING A MAGICAL FALL MOTOTRIP

THE DRAGON BRIDGE IN THE HISTORICAL CENTER OF LUBIANA.
IN THE BACKGROUD, PARTIALLY HIDDEN BY THE FOG, LUBIANA'S CASTEL

After dreaming about it, longing for it and planning it into the details, we finally spend a weekend in the Capital of Slovenia, and we do so by riding our motorcycles in a very engaging and exciting round trip, choosing two different ways: one for the going and one for the returning. 

The roads we ride present themselves to us as very variegated not only for the diversity of their landscapes, from isolated villages in the valleys among the mountains, to touristic or industrial areas, but also for the change of weather we encounter (from sunny and warming to foggy and chilling)! 

The city of Lubiana is rich of charme, effervescent at any time of the day and night and full of inspiring people and places, exactly ad I remembered it from my previous visits many years ago, when I was a young journalist covering cultural events in the area of former Jugoslavia for the Italian digital magazine "Osservatorio Balcani". 

8-9-10 October 2022

                                     

TOTAL DISTANCE COVERED: 364 KM = 226 miles

The mototrip in the detail:

RIDING ALONG THE SOČA RIVER AND DISCOVERING WINDY FRESH WILD SPOTS

We run the SR356, first among the woods and secondly among the prestigious vineyards of the Collio area, to reach the twin cities of Gorizia and Nova Gorica. They're just as if it was one unique big city, separated by the historic borderline between Italy and Slovenia, but sharing the same river and a lot more.

Then, we choose to ride the Slovenian road 103, which follows almost entirely the course of the fascinating Soča river (= fiume Isonzo, in Italian language)  and allows to completely soak into the wilderness and beauty of it. 

Lastly, we visit the town of Kobarid, perhaps sadly famous for the events of WWI once, but colourful, new and joyful today. Eventually we re-enter Italy through the deserted and relaxing SS54.

A ROADTRIP OF 217 KM = 134 MILES

North Eastern Italy (FVG Region) bordering Slovenia and West Slovenia.

[Counties of Udine and Gorizia (Italy) +  Goriska (Slovenia)]

09.08.2022

WE START OUR ROADTRIP WITH A JUICY BREAKFAST
AT "DOCTOR COFFEE AND MR. ICE", IN BUJA (WHICH MEANS 'DARK', BTW!)

A BRIEF STOP IN CIVIDALE DEL FRIULI: THIS RENOWNED TOWN
FOUNDED BY CEASAR AS "FORUM JULII" GAVE ITS LATIN NAME
TO OUR ENTIRE REGION, WHICH IS NOWADAYS FRIULI VENEZIA GIULIA.

THIS BAR CALLED "LA BORA" IS NAMED AFTER THE STRONG AND PERSISTENT WIND
THAT USUALLY BLOWS OVER THE NORTHERN EASTERN ADRIATIC SEA. 
FORTUNATELY, THE BORA HAS ACCOMPANIED US ALL THE WAY ALONG OUR RIDE
IN THIS HOT SUMMER DAY!

VISITING THE VERY CENTER OF GORIZIA:
THE MEDIEVAL CASTLE THAT DOMINATES THE CITY IS VISIBLE IN THE BACKGROUND

SAINT IGNAZIO CHURCH, IN GORIZIA

              

ROMA STREET AND THE FOUNTAIN OF NEPTUNE IN GORIZIA

DISMISSED CUSTOM HOUSE IN NOVA GORICA IN THE EXACT POINT WHERE FORMER JUGOSLAVIA AND ITALY GEOGRAPHICALLY MET: NOW THE SIGNPOSTS SIMPLY INDICATE THE BORDERLINE BETWEEN TWO COUNTRIES, BOTH BELONGING TO THE EUROPE UNION.

THE PICTORESQUE BRIDGE OF KANAL NA SOČI.
HERE'S WHERE THE ROAD 103 CROSSES THE RIVER, 
PASSING FROM ONE SIDE TO THE OTHER OF IT.

RELAXING CAMPING ZONE ALONG THE RIVER.
RAFTING IS VERY POPULAR AMONG THE VISITORS AND THE INHABITANTS HERE.

ONE OF OUR STOPS IN THE TOWN MOST NA SOČI: JUST WHEN WE STOPPED THERE,
A TOURISTIC FERRY BOAT PASSED UNDERNEATH THIS BRIDGE!

ENJOY THE VIDEOCLIP HERE:

THE TOWN OF MOST NA SOČI (=BRIDGE ON SOČA) 
IS THE POINT WHERE THE RIVER NATURALLY ENLARGES ITS COURSE
SO MUCH THAT IT APPEARS TO BE RATHER A CALM LAKE!  

PANORAMIC VIEW IN MOST NA SOČI: IN THE DISTANCE, THE MASSIVE MOUNTAIN
"MATAJUR" OR "MONTEMAGGIORE", ANOTHER TERRITORIAL SYMBOL
SHARED BOTH BY ITALY AND SLOVENIA.

AFTER A WARM AND WINDY RIDE, WE GOT TO SEE A 
MOST WILD ASPECT OF THIS VERSATILE RIVER

ENJOYING THE CENTER OF THE NOCE AND CROWDED TOWN OF KOBARID!

EXCELLENT LUNCH AT POLJANA'S, THE VERY LAST RESTAURANT
BEFORE ENTERING ITALY AGAIN,
IN THIS UPPER SECTION OF THE BORDERLINE

NOT FAR FROM THE FINAL GOAL (HOME) DURING OUR WAY BACK TO THE STARTING POINT,
WE STOPPED TO GREET THE CASTLE OF COLLOREDO DI MONTE ALBANO. 

POSTCARD FROM THE MAGIC RIVER! IN THIS POINT, AMONG OTHER THINGS,
WE MET BIKERS FROM SLOVENIA AND CZECH REPUBLIC
WHO WERE RIDING OUR SAME ROADS.

LUCKY RIDE IN THE RESIA VALLEY BEFORE THE DESTRUCTION OF ITS ROAD

 

A SHORT PAUSE AT ONE OF THE DOWNHILL CORNERS OF THE ROAD
WHILE COMING BACK FROM STOLVIZZA 

It's Thursday 14th of July and I wake up inspired to visit the Resia valley, so I get ready and ride till the core of it, unaware that I'm just one week apart from a chain of events that drastically will change the landscape and the viability of this area.

In fact, starting the 20th of July, a devastating extended fire of 9 days of duration, followed by a series of rains and massive rockslides, has ruined once and for all the SP42, in that moment the unique connection of the valley with the rest of the world!

So, in retrospective, I can say I'm one of the last motorcyclists to have ridden the old version of this road, lost forever. 

After the emergency, the SP64 has been necessarily closed for a total reconstruction, and temporarily substituted by an unusual passage way built of  gravel upon the very course of the Resia creek. 

FOR THE PURPOSES OF THIS POST, I ZOOMED IN THE MAP, SO THAT I FRAMED THE CENTRAL PART OF MY TRIP ONLY (AMD CUT OFF THE STARTING AND FINAL POINT, THAT IS MY HOME, IN SOPRAPALUDO, SAN DANIELE DEL FRIULI - UD).
THE RED CROSS INDICATES THE POINT WHERE THE FORK, AND THE WHITE DOTTED LINE INDICATES THE ROAD TO SLOVENIA. THIS OTHER ROAD WAS ALREADY (AND STILL IS NOWADAYS AND WILL KEEP BEING FOR WHO KNOWS HOW LONG) CLOSED FOR MAINTENANCE WORKS. 

North Eastern Italy, very near the borderline with Slovenia 

[Udine County]

14.07.2022 

The Resia valley (in Italian, Val di Resia, named after the Resia creek) lies in the Alps called Giulie and hosts an ancient community whose dialect has its roots in the Slovenian language.

It's one of the places where my parents would bring me for amusing family picnics and refreshing baths in the creek during the Summer holidays of my childhood.

Today I decide it to explore it with my Indian, after having missed it for some years.

I reach the point of entrance in the valley from the SS13 and I follow the SP64 till the villages Prato di Resia, San Giorgio and then Stolvizza. 

The next and last village in the valley is Coritis: after that one, the asphalted road is interrupted and the only way to keep on going towards East would be through dirt tracks and mountain paths. I wish to go to Coritis, the true goal of my childish memories, but I let this pleasure for another time.

After visiting Stolvizza I go back to the SP64 again, with the intention of checking out if I feel like picking the most adventurous option I have in this area, which is: reaching the only significant fork and taking the road that connects the Resia valley with Slovenia.

But at the fork I find out a signal pre-announcing that that road, which is the only way out of the valley besides the SP64, is closed from the crossing point called Sella Carnizza all the way long until Uccea (the village just at the borderline), with no further explanation (I will then discover the reason why: maintenance of the guardrails).

That's somehow like a premonition for me, so I decide to turn around and go back to the same road I was coming from: the SP64. I still don't know this is actually a farewell!

I exit the Resia valley, return to the main road, the SS13, and stop at the town of Resiutta for a typical touristic lunch. Finally, considering myself satisfied, I go back home without searching for more distractions.

So... imagine my feelings when, exactly 7 days after my trip, I listen to the news reporting about the impressive fire that has hit the Resia valley and has rapidly covered the area causing damage and destruction! 

As a consequence, the Resia valley has resulted completely isolated, just in the middle of the Summer, since both ways of access to it have been not viable at the same time, with no alternative way to come or go, and in a state of alert that officially has lasted 12 days!!!

National and local forces have been massively employed in the extraordinary operations of extinguishing the huge fire and building at incredible speed the passage way made of gravel upon the Resia creek, which has been opened to the traffic in the morning of 30th of July.

The new version of the SP64 will be available in late Autumn, according to the experts.

ONE OF THE BRIDGES UPON THE RESIA CREEK

THE CHURCH OF SANTA MARIA ASSUNTA

THE FASCINATING CANYON OF THE RESIA CREEK

THE VILLAGE OF STOLVIZZA. THE RESIA VALLEY HAS GOT AROUND 1.000 INHABITANTS WHO EXPERIENCED THE TOTAL ISOLATION FOR ABOUT 12 DAYS.

FINAL POINT OF MY TRIP IN THE RESIA VALLEY. I COULD HAVE GONE TILL CORITIS,
BUT I HAD A SENSATION OF "NOT THIS TIME". ANOTHER OMEN PERHAPS?

MEDITATION BREAK IN THE MIDDLE OF THE DOWNHILL CORNER

 

ENJOY THE 360° VIEW BY WATCHING THE FOLLOWING VIDEO:

I DECIDE TO TURN AROUND AND GO BACK TO WHERE I'VE COME FROM WHEN I SEE THAT THE BORDERLINE WITH SLOVENIA, ONLY 16 KM FROM HERE, IS NOT REACHABLE.

Basically, the road leading to Slovenia has been closed for maintenance of the guardrails (and still is now while I'm writing, and presumably will be, at least for a certain amount of time, in the future).

ANOTHER BRIDGE OVER THE RESIA CREEK

RESIUTTA, THE TOWN NEAR TO RESIA, DEVELOPS ALONG THE MAIN ROAD (THE FAMOUS SS 13) 
AND ITS POPULAR FOR ITS SPIT ROASTED CHICKEN 

THE MOUNTAINS OF THE RESIA VALLEY AS SEEN FROM THE MAIN ROAD (SS 13).
AMONG THE HIGHEST PEAKES, THE MOUNTAIN CANIN (2.587 meters a.s.l.)

FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT THE EVENTS HAPPENED AFTER MY TRIP
AND THE CONSEQUENCES OF THE FIRE:

CLICK HERE TO CHECK OUT A VIDEO DOCUMENTING THE PASSAGE WAY BUILT AS AN ALTERNATIVE TO THE SP42 (VIDEO FROM THE LOCAL NEWSPAPER WEBSITE)

THE PASSAGE WAY BUILT OF GRAVEL UPON THE COURSE OF THE RESIA CREEK (PHOTO FROM THE LOCAL NEWSPAPER WEBSITE)

THE SIDE OF THE SP64 BURNED BY THE FIRE
WHICH HAS DRASTICALLY CHANGED THE RESIA VALLEY AND ITS ONLY ROAD (PHOTO FROM THE LOCAL NEWSPAPER WEBSITE)

CHASING CANYONS AND THE FOOTPRINTS OF A LIVING LEGEND

ADMIRING ALL THE CHROMATIC NUANCES FROM BLUE TO GREEN
UPON THE ROMANTIC PASSERELLE WHICH CROSSES THE LAKE VERZEGNIS

After running fresh and fast along the SP1, coasting the shadowy canyon of the Arzino creek, and spotting from above the renowned village of Pozzis, we reach the pass of Sella Chianzutan and then we descend towards the romantic Lake of Verzegnis.

A "RING" TRIP OF 94 KM (58 MILES)

Northern Eastern Italy, Carnic Alps, Friuli Venezia Giulia

[Counties of Udine and Pordenone]

26.06.2022

US, HAVING A CONSISTENT BREAKFAST BEFORE EACH AND EVERY ROADTRIP! 

Here we are, ready to go and embrace the wind blowing over the impressive canyon of the Arzino, an hidden and inviting creek, very rich in waterfalls, pools and spinning rapid flowing waters! In this season when all around is hot and dry, the fresh and cool Arzino Valley can seem a mirage! 

The road we take has been labeled as the "ONE" (SP1 = Strada Provinciale numero 1 = County Road Number 1) and it's going to take us very close to a legendary man in the world of bikers: the now internationally known Cocco, and his village, Pozzis. 

First of all we pass through Muris, a district of Ragogna, where a white heart shaped path has been created near the top of the Mountain Muris and it's visible from many points surrounding the area. The message its the creator is: "Remember to use your heart with every thing you do!"

MURIS, RAGOGNA (THE WHITE HEART IS BARELY VISIBLE IN THIS PICTURE),
BUT YOU CAN SEE A BEAUTIFUL IMAGE OF IT HERE:

PICTURE BY "LOVE_FVG"

ROCKCLIMBING WALL IN ANDUINS

ALONG THE SP1

APPROACHING THE BENDS

This place commands awe and respect: when we stop our engines, we hear that the silence is in many points soundly interrupted by the roar of the creek; the dark desert road, carved into the high rocky walls, is constantly covered by the shadows of the mountains and the sunlight make the peaks shine all around, in an amazing contrast of colours!

Just in the middle of two series of steep hairping bends and between two rocky tunnels, there's a street indicating "Pozzis"! We avoid to take it this time, leaving the pleasure for some other circumstance in the future, but we slow down to have a complete and rewarding glimpse of the village that can be defined the cradle of many creative ideas related to motorcycles, film making, road movies, and more!

AMONG LONG LASTING GALLERIES AND DIZZYING SERPENTINES!

A PAUSE ALONG THE TOURISTIC ROUTE OF PIAN DELLE MORE CONNECTING BARCIS WITH PIANCAVALLO

Having a blast up and down the Monte Cavallo, which dominates Aviano, the town hosting one of the oldest military airports of Italy and, since 1954, the headquarters of the 31st Fighter Wing of the US Air Forces in Europe.

SO MANY THINGS ENTAILED IN THIS CIRCULAR ROADTRIP OF 91 MILES!

East Northern Italy, Friuli Venezia Giulia Region, Carnic Prealps. 

[Counties of Udine and Pordenone]

19.06.2022

READY TO GO AND HAPPY TO KNOW THAT MY PARTNER IN LIFE
HAS ALSO BECOME MY FAVOURITE BROTHER ON THE ROAD
SINCE WE'VE BEEN TOGETHER FOR THE LAST TRIPS, WE'VE SET UP 
THIS SPECIAL TRIP TODAY AND WE'RE PLANNING AHEAD MANY OTHERS TO COME! 

Our destination is the Piancavallo district, belonging to the international town of Aviano, and lying at 1.280 meters a.s.l., in a basin of the eastern slope of the Monte Cavallo, which literally translates into "Horse Mountain" (2.251 meters a.s.l.). We reach it by ascending the challenging Touristic Route called "del Pian delle More" from the town of Barcis. Then, we descend on the other side, riding along the wider and generally most travelled via Monte Cavallo (Mountain Horse street).

MEETING POINT AT 7:30 A.M.: IT'S GONNA BE A VERY HOT DAY AND WE'D BETTER START
OUR TRIP IN THE EARLY MORNING

THE LAST CHUNK OF THE MAJESTIC PINZANO BRIDGE OVER THE TAGLIAMENTO RIVER... 

...WHERE THE FUNNY ROAD SP5 OF THE COUNTY OF UDINE BECOMES -ONLY FOR THIS SECTION- SP4, AND THEN CONTINUES WITH THE NAME OF SP1 OF THE COUNTY OF PORDENONE.

THE TAGLIAMENTO RIVER IS ALWAYS SPECTACULAR

SAME SPOT FROM ANOTHER PERSPECTIVE =  EQUALLY SCENIC!

After crossing the Tagliamento river, and entering the County of Pordenone, we take the SP34 and then the SR464, and we pass over the fascinating and apparently desolated riverbeds of Meduna and Cellina: the waters of both these rivers sink into a huge underground water basin in this area called Magredi. 

SHORT STOP IN THE MAIN SQUARE IN THE TOWN OF MANIAGO

                                                

It's around 8:40 and the weather is warm and sultry when, after passing by the town of Montereale Valcellina, we take the SR251 and we suddenly enter the pleasantly chilly and long lasting gallery "Fara" (length 3,9 km = 2,4 miles), which pierces the Mountain Fara (1.342 meters a.s.l.) and leads us to the town and lake of Barcis: I love galleries and this one is soooo cool, in all senses! Coming out to the sunlight and the warm air again, we spot the clear waters of the lake: they're surprisingly quiet and clean... it seems a perfect mirror, reflecting and duplicating the whole landscape in all its perfect details.

THE LAKE OF BARCIS FROM THE NORTHERN...

...AND SOUTHERN SIDE

We wish to cross the lake riding over and old wooden paved one-way bridge which once was freely open to cars and motorcycles, but we discover there's a transit prohibited signal in it: only the passage for one single walking individual is now allowed. So, we take the road surrounding the lake and reach anyway the point where we'd planned to start the climbing of the Monte Cavallo: we enter the little known and almost hidden Touristic Route of Pian delle More. This is a very adventurous itinerary to choose, since this road is narrow, winding and rich in abrupt curves and bends. It is immersed in the forest and it is usually closed during the entire winter season 'cause, due to its shape and structure, it's too risky and dangerous when it snows and the asphalt freezes up.

THE TOURISTIC ROUTE OF PIAN DELLE MORE CONNECTING BARCIS WITH PIANCAVALLO
(length = 18,3 km or 11,4 miles)
 

SAVOURING THE FOREST...

...BREATHING GREEN! 

 

LAST CHUNK OF THE TOURISTIC ROUTE!

We arrive and find that Piancavallo is a place full of movement and people, and we're warmly welcomed by one of the inhabitants, who comes towards us to greet us and to ask about our motorcycles.

PARKING IN THE MAIN ROAD IN PIANCAVALLO  
AND TAKING SOME REST AND SOME REFRESHMENTS BEFORE DESCENDING

Piancavallo is famous for sport activities and competitions, especially for its ski slopes (hosting the Alpine World Cup) and for the cycle racing (with the Giro d'Italia). We notice that the energy is effervescent here above: the temperature is relatively low, compared to the flatland, and the air is fresh and crisp. A meaningful difference that one perceives even more drastically while descending rapidly the Via Monte Cavallo, with its smooth and fluent serpentine, which shows us beautiful views of the valley and invites us to run joyously down to the bottom!                              

CAVALLO MOUNTAIN STREET CONNECTING PIANCAVALLO WITH AVIANO
(length 15,5 km = 9,6 miles)

So rapidly we descend it, that we don't even think to stop and take some pictures from this side of the mountain. 

AFTER DESCENDING, WE STOP AT "BOBE'S THE GET AWAY": AN AMERICAN BAR IN AVIANO

ON OUR WAY BACK HOME, AROUND 11:20 A.M., ALMOST TO CROSS THE TAGLIAMENTO RIVER AGAIN, THIS TIME  OVER THE BRIDGE THAT CONNECTS SPILIMBERGO WITH DIGNANO.

US, TAKING A SELFIE IN FRONT OF THE HEART STONE SCULPTURE IN PIANCAVALLO:
CHOOSING A ROMANTIC SPOT AS A LOVELY MEMORY
FOR SUCH A GOOD DESTINATION AND SUCH A GREAT RIDE!